Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge - Climber.Org Trip Report

Matterhorn via Hornli Ridge
(Zermatt, Switzerland)

20-21 Aug 2000 - by Bill Hood

Peaks: Matterhorn, Pollux, Rimpfichhorn
(sorted/filed as Matterhorn, Pollux, Rimpfichhorn)

Difficulty: class 3, crampons, helmet, rope used, snow travel

Hello, Not technically hard but... be in great shape, especially legs and lungs. Do some rock climbing or use an indoor wall if that is your only option. Practice fixed rope technique as this is essential after the shoulder. Get there about 10 days early and do easier 4000M climbs like Pollux or the Rimpfichhorn. On some off days get altitude fitness by walking the stairs on the Klein Matterhorn for a few hours with a pack. At 4000M it's half way up the Matterhorn. Boring by yourself, but very effective, and with great views.

On the big day, carb up and take plenty of drink. With this preparation, a friendly guide, OK weather and a head for heights, you will have a good chance of making the summit. The dangers are unrelenting and the scale is bigger than you might imagine, but all the holds are there. It's as mentally hard as it is a physical challenge. The most intense 10 hours of my life, but when it's over you will never regret the experience. Stress on your job will never seem as bad again. E-mail me if you have questions. Good luck. Bill - Howick, New Zealand via Pittsburg, Kansas billaknz@hotmail.com

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