North by North Peak

7-8 Oct 1996 - by Brian Boyle

There are three spectacular couloirs on the northern side of North Peak. On the first weekend in October 1995, Bob Spies and I drove to Saddlebag Lake with the intention of climbing the standard, right-most couloir. We left the parking lot at 7:30 am on Saturday. On the hike in we met three guys who had just come off the mountain. They told us that we could easily third class the route.

We began climbing around noontime and sure enough, there was no need to rope up. The moderate angle - 60 degrees - and consolidated snow made this climb a straightforward proposition. At the top of the couloir we left our day packs and scrambled up third class rock to the summit. We reached the summit at 2:30 pm.

The weather was beautiful and we could see for miles in every direction. After retrieving our packs we hiked down scree slopes on the south side of the mountain. We arrived back at the parking lot at 6 pm.

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