There was no snow around Upper Boy Scout Lake and the bugs were out when the wind died down at night. The approach to Ice Berg Lake is fairly straight forward until you reach the weakness in the cliff band below the lake. There was some water running and there are many cairns. The path of least resistance seems to be to gain the ledges and work left to a 6' hand traverse (very easy). The bivy sites at Ice Berg Lake were free of snow. The chute was 80% snow covered with sections melted out at mid height and the very top at the notch. The snow was soft enough at 7am to not require crampons. I was able to follow steps from the previous day with relative ease. The direct finish from the notch is advisable if you enjoy rock scrambling (I felt it was Class 4, but maybe it's just California Class 3, I learned to climb in Colorado). The descent was uneventful with about a 1,000 ft. glissade. Crossing the creeks in the North Fork was a little exciting with higher flows at 2pm. I would highly recommend this route when it contains snow. I plan to go back earlier in the year when it is 100% snow. The Whitney Portal Message Board is a good place to obtain bootleg permits.
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