13-14 Jun 2002 - by Mark Connell
I did Split yesterday (6/14) via St Jeans. We started at first light from
Red Lake so were in the couloir quite early. The snow was already quite
soft and it could have been done without crampons. We used crampons and 2
tools and never broke out the rope. There were never any problems except
for a close call with rock fall. I jumped out of the way of a 40lb rock
that missed me by a couple of inches thus proving to myself that the snow
was at least firm enough to self arrest. There were other rocks that fell
but fortunately they were below us.
The East Couloir is completely melted out on the lower portions and had 2
very large rock falls go down it while we were on top.
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