Matthes Crest

5 Sep 1999 - by Chris Hahn

We (Chris Hahn and Rick Tietz) climbed the Matthes Crest as a day hike/climb early in September, 1999. We started hiking a little after 6 AM and got back around 8:30 PM. Headlamps in both directions.

It is a really enjoyable climb and highly recommended. We "simul climbed" the entire route except the last pitch up the North Summit pinnacle. The traverses with sheer drop-offs from the knife edge are a lot of fun, and generally not very hard. We managed to climb something quite a bit harder than 5.6 up the last pitch to the summit pinnacle, more like 5.9. A big flake broke off under the foot of Rick as he led the last pitch.

In general the rock is really nice with huge crystals like Cathedral Peak.

A footnote about the approach. We went in past Budd Lake and through the Echo Peaks pass as recommended by Secor, we went out on the Cathedral Lakes Trail. I would recommend this loop. It gives different scenic views of the beautiful Tuolumne back country and it takes advantage of the less-steep approach to the Echo Peaks pass from the north. We didn't feel like climbing up the steep scree between the Echo Peaks on the way back. Both hikes took about 3 hours for two forty something hikers.


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