Dana Couloir - Climber.Org Trip Report

Dana Couloir

9 Sep 2006 - Jonathan Willy (view Who's Who entry)

Peaks: Dana Couloir
(sorted/filed as Danacouloir)

Trailhead: Tioga Lake

Participants: Jason Fixe, Erin Lutrick

Difficulty: Really Mellow Ice AI3? About 6 screws and 2 pickets, ice axe, crampons, helmet, rope used, snow travel, technical ice

As described, this climb is a great introduction to alpine ice and would make a great solo in its current condition. The schrund' at the base is easily avoidable with a small step on the left side on very well bonded snow. The approach is a bit on the longish side for alpine boots, as the first few miles are on a nice trail that meanders through beautiful meadows. Once you the first talus/moraines come into view if you stick to the right side of the meadows, you'll find yourself much happier as you can stay on a faintly defined trail for the rest of the approach. There are not cairns on this trail but, if you are used to alpine trails it shouldn't pose too big an issue. You only really need one water bottle as there is good water all the way up the drainage until about 300' from the base of the route.

The guidebook calls for about 6 pitches of mellow AI and we found this to be accurate with most of the climbing on very well bonded snow with patches of blue ice sticking through frequently enough to permit the placement of 2-3 good screws per pitch. We chose to use a picket at each anchor and the placements were bombproof. The view is spectacular with the route going into the shade at around 1:30.

All in all a fun route with a scrappy approach that will take anywhere from 1.5-3 hours. The descent from the top is on a "trail" but if you miss it, you will end up on a heinous loose face or traversing down into the drainage for the Dana plateau and walking out through some lovely meadows at which point you can either parallel the ridge or just head North East and you will find yourself near the Mono Pass trailhead just inside the park and can thumb it back to the car.

(There are disclaimers at the bottom.)
To file a trip report, please fill in the Report Entry form or contact the webmaster.