Correction to Secor, Mount Starr King

by Steve Eckert
Secor says to climb to the first saddle south of the peak, the NW saddle, but it looked a lot easier to do the second (SE) saddle and romp over the middle summit: this keeps it second class all the way to the roped pitch.

5.0, you say? Nope. Many register entries confirm our impression that it was more like 5.4 - doable in vibram soles, but only with a top belay (Karon and I both slipped at the same spot, where the angle and friction are such that rock shoes are required for any degree of safety when leading). The prominant rap sling on "the big ledge" is NOT at the halfway point. You can't reach the top on a single rope from here! Go straight up to a smaller ledge, then go left: the alternate of left-then-up leads you under an overhang. Just above the smaller ledge is another rap sling (old and fading) held in place by a stone chock. From here you can reach the top but you may not be able to rappel all the way to the saddle, even if you bring two ropes to rap off! Macho climbers will walk down the 4th class friction of the top pitch, we all used the rope.


The information provided in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based their own knowledge, experience and observations.