Correction to Secor, Mount Stanford (S)

by Peter Maxwell
We stopped several times in the first half hour trying to figure out exactly which was the peak and which route to take. This has to be one of the most difficult peaks to locate. It was almost impossible to match the topo map with what we were looking at, and the peak looked more like a wall of rock than a peak. Even Gregorys' Monument, immediately adjacent, should have been a giveaway indicator but it wasn't.

As it turned out I got more challenge than I bargained for. Our original intention had been to try the North Ridge route, but when we arrived at the valley leading west to the ridge, we could see that the route involved a steep wall. Some people expressed concern at the safety of this route. After discussion, we decided that the entire group would continue further south around a large ridge and into the next bowl.

Beyond this spur ridge it became clear that the route had to go up the bowl and on to the ridge or plateau on top. The bowl was apparently the steep chute which descends directly from the summit described in Secor - makes me wonder if he ever climbed it personally. This summit plateau/ridge ran all in front of us: from Mt Stanford all the way to the left (past Gregory's Monument and over towards Forester Pass).

Most of it was a steep wall, and on the next peak it was a loose talus slope above a scree-covered glacier. A gully immediately in front of us looked as if it might be possible, although most of it was obscured by a rock curtain, out the base of which fanned a large scree slope.

The more open and visible route on our right was clear - a move off to the east, a traverse across the gully on a wide ledge and then up to the top of the chute by the ears - two rock columns. Most of the group agreed that this, the northwest route, was going to be the easiest.

The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.