Correction to Secor

Mt Silliman, NW Buttress

by Amos Clifford

August 15, 1976

By 3:30 we reached the base of the mountain ... [We began] the 3rd class to the notch at the base of the buttress. We could have roped up for this, as it was.

From the notch I led up an obvious left facing book (5.5) to a large ledge. Phil followed with my pack. Having only 2 ropes was a problem (we should have brought 3) which we dealt with as follows: The 2nd tails the rope to the 3rd, who climbs halfway up and receives the leaders rope thrown down to him; he then coils and tosses it to the 4th to assure that it does not go astray among the wind and stone.

The second pitch was enjoyable face climbing, keeping right of a difficult looking corner and ending in a steep layback (5.6) ... The next lead was up diagonally right to a very steep left book, climbed via off-width jamming, face, and chimneying that ended abruptly on the summit. The last moves were the crux --- about 5.7. We hauled the packs over this section because of its steepness and difficulty.

We were all on the summit at 7:30 pm ... I left a route description in the register, rating it II 5.7. We named the route Northwest Buttress: Star of David, after a pattern we perceived in a prominent system of fractures on the wall.


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