Correction to Secor, Mount Sill

by David Wright
Both Roper's and Secor's description of the route from the Polemonium Glacier are fairly useless; we sat there arguing which peak was Sill! It didn't help that my compass said that the noontime sun was in the east. Anyway, we climbed the only peak we felt up to trying, and, lucky us, it was Sill. Here's my description of the final part of the route:

Ascend the scree field (lucky for us it was still snow) into Polemonium Bowl. Cross the terminal moraine of the Glacier, keeping to the right. You will see three peaks ringing the Bowl. To your left is Peak 13,962, ahead is Polemonium Peak, and to the right is Sill. The tops of Peak 13,962 and Polemonium are obvious; the top of Sill is not. Ascend the chute just past the moraine ridge; if your compass works, it will be on a Soutwest face. The lower portion of the chute is very loose small rock and sand, but not at all steep. Higher up, where it steepens, a ridge splits this chute and the right hand portion is firm rock. After reaching the summit ridge, traverse to the left to the summit. The only obstacle is a 10 foot notch that requires down and up climbing large blocks. However there is no exposure so even neophytes can handle it. On the descent the sandy (north) chute is the easiest.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.