Correction to Secor, Mount Mills

by David Harris
We hiked over to the East Couloir of Mills and promptly became unable to reconcile our route with Secor.

The only couloir on the impressive East face of Mills was split at the bottom. The right side was blocked at the very bottom by a large chockstone and the left side had an appealing snowfield leading upward that might hopefully cover loose rock. Secor mentions a variation going right from a chockstone blocking a couloir that supposedly avoids loose rock. Since we could not see an alcove below the right chockstone, we figured there might be another chockstone up higher and started up the left chute.

By the time we reached the top of the snow, both were long gone and we had to evaluate the options. Ahead was a chockstone blocking about 2/3 of a very loose chute. To the right was something that could be construed to be an alcove that climbed a short face onto a rib. The face looked hard, so I went on to explore the chute above the chockstone. Getting around the chockstone was unnerving because everything was loose and I worried that rolling a small boulder which supported the chockstone could send the several ton stone down crushing me. Above the chockstone the chute was walled off on all sides.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.