Correction to Secor, Lone Pine Peak, North Ridge route

by Matthew Gelber
Guidebook recommends bypassing the final headwall by traversing right on a class 3 ledge, crossing a loose gully, and going up a class 3 buttress above. Perhaps the condition of the gully has worsened since Secor did it; at any rate crossing it is now a suicidal undertaking. Having [barely] survived the crossing recently I would heartily recommend going any way other than this. Tackling the headwall directly looks easy class five for 3 or 4 pitches.

On the other hand, if you try to cross the gully and live through it, you'll have beautiful memories: first, the gully shifting under your feet; then, the whole thing moving; you sprinting up and making no progress as the gully unloads over the edge -- which is just under your feet; blocks passing by first under your hands and chest and knees and then under your feet and then into the void; the smell of sulfur and roar of crashing rocks.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.