Correction to Secor, Mount Julius Caesar

by Steve Eckert
Secor mentions a "class 2 slope" that goes south from the cirque northeast of JC to the crest. There are several chutes, but nothing that looks like an open slope. The first chute leaves from the lake outlet, appears to be blocked by a cliff at the top (at least in early morning light), and it heads southwest instead of south. Further into the cirque is another chute, narrower and not as tall, which is loose class 2 to a nice saddle. The other side of that saddle, however, is not nice. We saw no way to stay on the ridge, and traversing in class 3 lead us to cliffs before and below.

Fortunately there was one long chute cleaving the cliffs, and a 25' rappel got us into talus which lead down, around, and up the southeast bowl (above Chalfant Lake). This route is not mentioned by Secor, but is class 2 to the summit. The east ridge of JC (south of the cirque) looks unclimbable without a rope from both sides and from above.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.