Correction to Secor, Huxley, Mount

by Steve Eckert
[excerpt from http://climber.org/reports/1995/39.html]

It took 2 hours to do a [difficult] one mile traverse [from Warlow to Huxley] with 400 feet of gain and loss, but we made it to Mt Huxley (13117) in one piece. Fortunately, there was an easy way down.

The "west shoulder" route [on Huxley] listed by Secor as "class 3...class 2, but with a headwall" is really all class 2. The headwall is easily bypassed to the north, staying on scree and boulders the entire way. There are a few moves in the chute that could be called class 3, and there are one or two moves on the summit blocks, but the level of difficulty is so different from the OTHER class 3 route that we considered it class 2 by contrast. At the base of the chute there appear to be some cliffs which are easily bypassed by traversing to the ridge just north of the chute.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.