Correction to Secor

Mt Hooper

by David Harris

The standard route approaches from a notch to the south of the peak and the mountain is also commonly climbed from the north (not listed in Secor). We decided to attempt a route up the prominent east arete just right of the gully that leads directly to the summit. The angle was very steep, but the rock well fractured.

We [Harris and his 15 year old cousin Baikal Harris] scrambled up some sand and slabs to a sloping ramp leading under an arete just left of center of the peak and across the gully at the center of the face to the base of the arete. The arete climbs steeply at first, then becomes flatter and has a jagged notch. It crests right at the summit block of the peak. We belayed six pitches of 4th class and simulclimbed one more (with a proper 50 meter rope, this should amout to about 3 roped pitches). The climbing was a very enjoyable classic Sierra ridge ascent featuring good solid holds all the way with the exception of a few areas of looser rock where the angle backs off. The exposure was dramatic.

As we believe this may have been a first ascent, I name the route "Baikal's Arete." If anyone has evidence to the contrary, I would appreciate a report. The gully just left of the arete looks like it would probably also go at 4th class; the next ridge to the left has some steep blankish parts and might offer a bit of 5th class climbing before it eases off.


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