Correction to Secor, Mount Gabb

by Peter Maxwell
at Dade Lake ... I was surprised to see the southwestern shores of the lake still covered with snow several feet thick. There were even crevasses in it as large chunks were poised to break off into the lake. This large snowfield extended up the slopes a way as well, so we had to negotiate this first. The large sun cups made the going difficult and it was with some relief that we were finally able to get onto rock.

It was not clear exactly where to head to. Secor talks about "the first notch south of the lowest notch" being the preferred route. The trouble was that this would have put us hard up against Bear Creek Spire, and the snow slopes leading up to this notch were extremely steep. We had neither crampons nor ice axes so headed a little further north, towards a very obvious "U" shaped notch. This proved to be an excellent choice, with only class 2 rock to contend with. The number of footprints seen there showed that many others had come that way also ...

We had wonderful, easy, sandy slopes to walk down from the col, at least at first. Secor's description was rather vague, about having to turn right (to the northwest) before turning left (to the southwest) to descend to the lake. The temptation is to go southwest too soon, to avoid going "too far out of the way", and we ended up going down some steep, slippery sections that would have been better avoided. It's better to stay in northwest direction longer, heading into the upper portions of the bowl around Gabb, Abbott and Dade, then descending the much easier slopes from there.


The information in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers and the Sierra Club are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based on their own knowledge, experience and observations.