Correction to Secor

The Dragtooth, Northeast Buttress

by Robert Grow

The Northeast Buttress of Dragtooth on the Sawtooth Ridge is listed as Class 4. A more correct rating would be II, 5.4. The first few pitches are easy fifth class on the east (left) side of a sharp arete. Then the arete fades into more of a face, and you head up, then left, to the base of a big recess or open book. Climb cracks on the right wall for about a pitch. Finish with a classic lieback. In early season the lieback crack may be filled with snow, in which case more difficult climbing (maybe about 5.7) on the right wall would be necessary.

This route has good climbing with an alpine flavor. Retreat would be difficult because the first pitches are mostly horizontal.

From the top, one way to get down is to drop down several hundred feet on the south side, then traverse over to slabs on Matterhorn Peak. Traverse and climb the slabs to reach a trail. This trail leads to the top of Matterhorn and its east couloir, which can be descended Class 2.


The information provided in these pages is provided by interested volunteers and has not been field checked. R.J. Secor, The Mountaineers, the Sierra Club and climber.org are in no way responsible for the accuracy of any route advice on this web site. Safe climbers must be able to understand the terrain and topography of the area they travel in, and they must make wise route finding choices based their own knowledge, experience and observations.