I had attempted this peak last year and failed due to inadequate equipment (no crampons or ice axes). Another necessary addition to Secor's description: he makes no mention of having to ascend a 45 degree snow slope just to get to the start of the rock portion of the climb, if one starts from the area of red rock in the cirque above Cecile Lake. The convenient ledge running across the northeast face is cut by this snow slope, which perhaps melts out much later in the season, but if it's there, the only way to avoid it is to take either the Rock Route or the Glacier Route, starting from the north side of the lake.