Correction to Secor, Mount Abbot

by Pat Ibbetson
The north couloir route on Abbot needs a revision. Every book i've ever read called the last part class 4, we all called it class 5 (except Tony...). Owen Maloy also told me that he had a terrible time on that route (didn't summit) because they were looking for class 3.

John Wakabayashi adds: I'd like to append to my comments disagreeing with the "correction" that suggested the upper part of the NE couloir route on Mt. Abbot is harder than class 3. I found my original 1977 notes and they state that the first obstacle on the knife edge is overcome by moving left (east) of the ridgetop, whereas the next obstacle is passed by moving right (west) of the ridgetop--this is pretty much the way it is written in Secor 2nd edition. I don't recall whether my original comment said that some of the holds on the final traverse on the west side of the ridge are actually the top of the ridge. I think this applies only at the start of this traverse because this traverse drops too far below the level where one can physically touch the ridgetop. My notes say that one drops 15 feet on the west side. I think this is a slightly descending traverse on a ledge west of the ridgetop that ends at a ledge or platform 15 feet or so lower than the start of the traverse. From that point there is the one last class 3 move that I mentioned in the comment. All my earlier comments regarding the high quality of the rock and holds and the exposure apply. Also, my notes say that the easy 3rd class slopes that lead off the couloir to the ridge had lots of ducks that mark various use paths up these slopes.


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